Proper tack fit is essential for your horse’s comfort, health, and performance. Ill-fitting gear can lead to chafing, muscle soreness, behavior issues, or even long-term damage, none of which help when you’re trying to keep your horse feeling and working their best.
That said, not everyone can replace a piece of tack the moment it stops fitting perfectly. Whether you’re working within a budget or holding on to a favorite headstall or saddle with sentimental value, buying something new isn’t always the first (or best) option. Fortunately, there are several ways to fix common fit problems using simple adjustments, basic tools, or a few strategic add-ons, no shopping spree required.
Headstall Fit Issues
a. Too Loose or Too Tight
One of the most common problems with a headstall is that it just doesn’t sit right, either it’s too tight and pulls on the bit or ears, or it hangs too loose and flops around during a ride. Often, the issue is simply a matter of needing more adjustment holes in the cheekpieces or crownpiece.
Solution: Use a leather punch to add extra holes where needed. This gives you better control over fit and allows you to fine-tune the balance of the headstall.
Tip: Always use a proper leather punch rather than a nail or pocketknife. Makeshift tools can tear or weaken the leather, which may shorten the life of your gear or create unsafe conditions over time.
b. Browband or Throatlatch Too Snug
If your horse starts tossing their head or seems irritated when bridled, check the browband and throatlatch. These pieces are often overlooked but can create pressure around the poll, ears, and throat, especially on horses with thicker jowls or wider foreheads.
Solution: Add an extender made from leather or a synthetic strap to give a bit more room. These are easy to make from scrap leather or can be found inexpensively online or at tack swaps.
Optional Fix: If you have an old headstall lying around, try swapping out the browband for a longer one. Many riders have success mixing and matching pieces from different sets to get a better fit, plus, it’s a great way to give older tack new life.
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Bit Positioning Problems
a. Bit Hangs Too Low or Pulls Too High
A bit that’s too low may bump your horse’s teeth, while one that’s too high can create tight corners in the mouth, causing discomfort or tension. Either issue can lead to resistance, head tossing, or refusal to take the bridle.
Solution: Start by adjusting the cheekpieces. If you’ve added extra holes (as mentioned above), you’ll have more room to raise or lower the bit slightly for a more natural resting position, usually where one or two small wrinkles form at the corners of the mouth.
Temporary Fix: If you need a quick adjustment but can’t get the bit to sit just right, you can add a small leather loop or use Chicago screws to create a custom-fit connection between the bit and headstall. This works well as a short-term solution during training or while waiting to make more permanent adjustments.
b. Horse Resists the Bit
If your horse is suddenly fussy with the bit or showing signs of resistance, don’t automatically assume it’s a training issue, it could be a fit or pressure problem. Look for signs of pinching or rubbing on the lips or corners of the mouth.
Solution: Add fleece or rubber bit guards to cushion the edges and prevent the bit from pinching. These guards are inexpensive, easy to install, and can make a significant difference, especially with thinner-skinned horses or those with sensitive mouths. They’re also a good option when switching between bits that have slightly different dimensions or designs.
Saddle Fit Adjustments
a. Saddle Slips to One Side (Minor Fixes Only)
If your saddle consistently slides to one side during a ride, it’s often due to uneven pad placement, an off-center girth, or a horse with uneven muscle development (which is more common than you’d think). A slipping saddle can cause imbalance for the rider and soreness for the horse.
Solution:
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Start by making sure your saddle pad is centered and evenly pulled up into the gullet.
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Double-check your cinch or girth position; it should run straight down from the rigging, not angled behind the elbow or off to one side.
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If everything is adjusted correctly but the problem persists, try adding a non-slip pad or liner between the horse and the saddle pad. These are usually made of neoprene or waffle-patterned rubber and provide better grip without bulk.
Tip: A simple, inexpensive non-slip drawer liner (cut to shape) can work as a temporary fix in dry conditions, just be sure it lies flat and doesn't bunch up.
b. Slight Bridging or Rocking
If your saddle rocks front to back or lifts in the middle, you may be dealing with minor bridging, where the saddle doesn't make even contact with your horse's back. Over time, this can lead to sore spots, dry patches, or poor performance.
Solution:
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Use a shim pad or correction pad with built-in pockets to add padding only where it’s needed, typically the front (to lift the bars off the withers) or the center (to fill in gaps).
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DIY Option: Insert small foam pads or folded felt into the pad's underside if it has a built-in channel or contour. Avoid over-padding, which can create pressure points of its own.
Note: Bridging and rocking can also signal that your saddle tree shape isn't a great match for your horse's back. If these issues become persistent, it may be time to consult a saddle fitter.
Padding and Pressure Relief
Even if your tack technically fits, it can still cause discomfort in pressure-prone areas, especially during longer rides, hotter weather, or when your horse is in transition (gaining or losing weight or muscle). Padding strategically can help relieve irritation, improve performance, and prevent long-term soreness without replacing gear.
a. Sensitive Areas (Poll, Withers, Chest)
The poll, withers, and chest are three key areas where tack often causes pressure, especially under headstalls, breast collars, and saddle trees. If your horse shows signs of discomfort, flinching when being tacked, resisting rein pressure, or developing rub marks, padding may help.
Solutions:
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Wraps: Use fleece covers, vet wrap, or soft neoprene tubing to cushion tight areas. These can be wrapped around browbands, crownpieces, wither straps, or center chest straps on a breast collar.
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DIY Options: Foam pipe insulation or rolled-up felt work well as temporary padding solutions. Secure with vet wrap or leather ties to keep them in place without rubbing.
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Upgrades: Neoprene or gel wraps from medical supply or tack stores offer more structured support and cushioning. They’re especially useful around the poll or withers, where sensitive nerves and bony structure are close to the surface.
Tip: Always make sure the padding stays smooth and doesn’t shift during the ride; bunched-up material can cause more problems than it solves.
b. Dry Spots After Riding
After you remove the saddle pad, look for dry spots in the sweat pattern. These can indicate uneven pressure, where the saddle is bridging or pressing too hard in one area, preventing the horse from sweating normally.
Solutions:
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Shims: Add strategically placed shims inside a correction pad to balance the saddle and relieve excess pressure.
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Contoured Pads: Switching to a contoured pad that fits your horse’s topline better can help distribute weight more evenly. These pads are shaped to rise over the withers and follow the natural dip of the back, reducing pressure points and saddle movement.
Note: A single dry spot isn’t always a red flag, but consistent patterns, especially paired with white hairs or swelling, shouldn’t be
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General Tips and Tools
Making simple tack adjustments doesn’t require a full leatherworking setup—just a few key tools and a little creativity.
Helpful Tools to Keep on Hand:
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Leather punch: Essential for adding clean adjustment holes without damaging the tack.
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Chicago screws: Great for securing cheekpieces, swapping conchos, or making quick strap adjustments.
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Spare conchos and straps: Use them to extend or repair browbands, throatlatches, or spur straps.
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Fleece covers or sheepskin wraps: An Easy way to add comfort around high-friction areas.
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DIY materials: Vet wrap, foam padding, pipe insulation, or soft fabric can be repurposed to relieve pressure or prevent rubs in a pinch.
Pro Tip: After making any modifications, clean and condition your leather. This keeps it soft, strong, and more resistant to cracking, especially around newly punched holes or areas of increased stress.
Keeping your tack in good shape doesn’t always mean buying new gear. With a few smart fixes and some basic tools, you can correct common fit problems and keep both you and your horse comfortable and performing well. Make it a habit to regularly check how your tack fits—what works well one month might shift slightly with changes in muscle, weight, or even humidity. Small adjustments go a long way in preventing long-term discomfort or injury.
Do you have your own quick-fix tricks or DIY tack hacks? Share them in the comments—we’d love to hear what’s worked for you!
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